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I’ll be honest, I had never heard of Raby Castle in Staindrop, but who wouldn’t be intrigued by a village with that name?
And so, when my husband Malcolm and I – and of course our dog, Rollo – were invited on behalf of Vist County Durham to visit Raby with a trip to High Force Waterfall and a night at a gorgeously old-world pub with rooms, I couldn’t say yes quickly enough.
County Durham is about a four-hour drive from where we live in Bishops Stortford, Hertfordshire. Because it was a long drive for just one night, we were delighted when a second night at the seaside resort of Seaham was offered. So, with the forecasts predicting wonderful weather, I packed a couple of summer dresses, and off we drove.
High Force Waterfall
Naturally, I had Googled Raby Castle, and the closer we got to Staindrop, the more excited I became. After a couple of stops, I filled the drinking bottles with coffee and bridge rolls to eat on the way, as I refuse to pay for hot drinks and sandwiches.
The countryside and little villages were beautiful. We’d had rain the week before, so everything was green and lush. Eventually, we arrived at Raby Castle; the sun was shining, and the car park was filling up rapidly as it was Father’s Day, and there were loads of parents, children and dogs piling out.
Originally built in the 14th Century by the Nevilles, with Cecily Neville being the mother of Edward IV and Richard III. The Nevilles lost the castle after the failed Northern Rising when an attempt was made to put Mary Queen of Scots on the throne. Raby Castle was then taken into Royal custody until 1626, when Sir Henry Vane the Elder purchased it. Since then, it’s been owned by the Vanes. In fact, this family still live there and owns land “as far as the eye can see”.
We passed through the gates of Raby Castle’s gorgeous grounds. Following the hordes down to the restaurant, we walked around the grounds, passed the walled garden and into the castle’s entrance. Sadly, doggies aren’t allowed inside, so while I plonked myself on the grass with a book, drink and Rollo, Malcolm took himself for a tour of the inside and then we swapped over.
What a magnificent castle! So much art and furnishings, and knowledgeable and friendly volunteers. Don’t tell anyone, but in the guest bedroom, I hopped over the rope to examine the hip bath and commode alongside. I also discovered that, if the other side of the room was too far to walk, or your need was too urgent, you could just pull out the bottom drawer of the bedside table, and use a “gazunder” (a pot for night soil!).
I love houses (or castles) with second staircases, and Raby Castle even has a third. Wandering down the stone staircase to the servant’s scullery, the medieval kitchen was impressive – not to mention freezing. We could have spent all day there, but the chic gift shop beckoned, where I bought a perennial plant as a souvenir.
On to High Force Hotel…
Eventually, we said goodbye to the castle and drove to High Force Hotel, about 30 minutes down to Middleton-in-Teesdale. Crowded with guests, drinkers and dogs, the hotel is situated on the main road with a large car park ready for all the walkers to descend on the path to High Force waterfall.
As we followed our host up to Room Five, we were met with peace and tranquillity. Because we were sadly only staying for one night, we tried hard to pack light. We had packed just one bag, Rollo’s bed and food, and the obligatory bag of books (as I can’t go anywhere without at least two or three books, plus my Kindle).
The bathroom was a delight: a freestanding roll top bath under the window, a loo with a real cistern and chain to pull and a state-of-the-art shower. Tucked away behind a door in the corner was an old-fashioned chest of drawers with the hospitality tray perched on top. Unfortunately, the hospitality tray was too high for me to reach, so all I could do was lounge on the bed while my husband made tea and sampled the biscuits.
Although we were asked if we wanted to walk to the waterfall before dinner, we declined and lay on the bed, drinking tea and reading until dinner.
Rollo happily followed us downstairs to a large and comfortable dining room, where the dinner was superb, including a bowl of chicken for Rollo to eat under the table. He was in doggy heaven!
Next stops – High Force Waterfall, Seaham Harbour, and Durham Cathedral
Following our early morning walk down the woodland path to the bottom pool of High Force Waterfall, we were mesmerised. With birds tweeting, little animals running through the undergrowth and Rollo happily snuffling along, it was the most magical place.
Next, it was onto Seaham Harbour. After a light lunch at one of the cafes at the top of the harbour, and following a stroll on the stony beach, we checked into The Seaton Lane Inn, part of The Inn Collection Group.
Rollo goes for a sea paddle
After a great night’s sleep and a cooked breakfast, it was off to Durham Cathedral. My husband was booked onto the 11:30am Cathedral tour, so Rollo and I set out to explore the town.
Durham is a university city, so the place was thronged with students making the most of the sunshine. Rollo and I wandered back along the cobbled streets to the green outside the cathedral to sit in the sun, having checked out all the charity shops, of course. Now that doggies are also allowed inside, Rollo and I then enjoyed wandering through the cloisters whilst my husband soaked up all the Durham Cathedral knowledge.
A successful trip
I’m so grateful to Raby Castle and High Force Hotel, as well as Seaton Lane Inn and Durham Cathedral, for hosting us. Raby Castle and High Force Hotel are in the Durham Dales, whilst Seaham is on the Durham Coast. And of course, the Cathedral is in Durham City. I’ve never been that far ‘up north’ before, but I can thoroughly recommend County Durham.
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