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Last summer my husband and I and our two teenage sons went on a holiday to Madeira. We were joined by another family of four, spending 10 days in the island’s capital, Funchal.
Our concern, however, having never visited Madeira before, was that it might not have enough to keep our teenagers occupied. We also thought the lack of beaches could be a problem, as our usual summer holidays are very much beach-based.
But we needn’t have worried, as the hotel we stayed in – the four-star Porto Mare – more than surpassed our expectations, with plenty for the teens to do and lots of time for us parents to relax. Although there weren’t many sandy beaches to bask on, there was ample opportunity to swim in the beautiful, crystal-clear sea, with several lidos scattered across the coast and plenty of steps down from the rocks.
Here’s my rundown of some of the highlights we enjoyed whilst we were there.
1. Swimming at the Funchal Lido Bathing Complex
A short walk from our hotel was the Funchal Lido Bathing Complex, which, when we stayed, cost €13.50 for two people and included two sunbeds and an umbrella. But you don’t have to hire a sunbed at all if you don’t want to, as there’s a big main pool and smaller pools for younger children. However, we chose to head straight for the sea, where we could swim out to big floating pontoons.
The sea is really clean and beautiful, and I have to say, I preferred accessing the water from steps down the rocks, rather than via a beach – there’s no sand to scrape your feet when you get out either! The sea can get a little rough, so if you’re not a strong swimmer or are going with grandchildren, it may be best to stick to the pool areas, though both are well-supervised by lifeguards.
There are several other places around Funchal to swim off the rocks, or where there are natural sea pools, but you’ll usually (though not always) have to pay to access them. We found some great steps that were accessible without paying, which we all enjoyed jumping off.
2. Exploring Fanal Forest
The Fanal Forest is almost otherworldly because it’s usually shrouded in mist, with the lichen-covered trees only barely visible through the haze. Scenes in the Star Wars series The Acolyte were filmed there, including those featuring the Outer Rim forest planet of Khofar, home of Wookiee Jedi Master Kelnacca.
It’s a really mystical place and one that’s popular with hikers. If you do visit the Fanal Forest, however, make sure you take suitable footwear (trainers or hiking boots) and some warm clothing – it certainly felt several degrees cooler there than anywhere else on the island.
3. Taking a jeep tour round the island
The day-long jeep tour we took around the island with a company called ‘Up Mountain Madeira’ was undoubtedly the highlight of our stay for all of us.
As a party of eight, we had the jeep to ourselves, and our guide was brilliant, giving us a real insight into life outside the main tourist areas. The tour certainly lived up to its name, as we seemed to climb higher and higher for hours, navigating numerous hairpin turns along the way.
The teenagers absolutely loved being thrown around on various off-road tracks and were able to stand at times, as the jeep was open-top.
The views we enjoyed were spectacular, and we saw several bays and sites that we probably otherwise wouldn’t have visited.
4. Riding on the Funchal cable car
If you’re a vertigo sufferer like my husband, this activity almost certainly won’t be for you. However, if you’re after spectacular views and a quick way to get to the Botanical Gardens and the toboggan rides at Monte, this is your best bet.
The rise is steep, but it’s a brilliant way to see the city from above, with the sea in the background. It’s relatively expensive, though, at €18 per person for a round trip. And ticket queues can be long, so it’s a good idea to buy them online in advance if you can, at Teleférico do Funchal (madeiracablecar.com).
5. Visiting Monte Palace and gardens
The village of Monte is around 9km from the centre of Funchal and is almost 600 metres above sea level. Like most of the island, it’s wonderfully verdant and has fabulous views of the bay of Funchal.
The main attraction in the village is Monte Palace, which is home to a vast collection of exotic plants from around the world. Inside the palace, you’ll find numerous sculptures and one of the most significant tile panel collections in Portugal. Outside, peacocks, ducks, swans, and chickens amble around the stunning gardens and its central lake.
6. Tobogganing from Monte to Funchal
Tobogganing down the steep hill from Monte to Funchal in wicker baskets was a definite highlight of our trip, although it was over far too quickly! The toboggans have been running since the early 19th century when they became the first means for residents to get down the hill quickly to Funchal. The sleds can accommodate up to three people, and each one is steered by two ‘carreiros’ dressed in white and wearing straw boaters.
You reach speeds of 30km an hour, and it feels quite surreal careering down the streets watching the carreiros use the rubber soles of their shoes as brakes – but it’s great fun.
While not an especially cheap activity, at €27.50 per person, €35 for two people and €47.50 for three (the carreiros will expect a tip at the bottom, too), it’s well worth doing as it’s entirely unique to Madeira. Be prepared for queues, however, which can be especially long as the men and their sleds have to be driven back to the top of the mountain after every run.
7. Feasting on the local food and drink
Espada com banana is a traditional Madeiran dish which you’ll find in most restaurants. It’s prepared using the hideous-looking black scabbard fish (espada) and banana. The black fish is sliced into fillets, seasoned, then battered and fried, and served with fried bananas.
My husband – the only one of us brave enough to try it – gave it a lukewarm reception, declaring the combination of fish and bananas “too weird” to be enjoyable. But it’s certainly popular with locals.
Limpets (a type of sea snail) are another Madeiran speciality, and my 15-year-old couldn’t get enough of them, but the rest of us weren’t quite so enamoured. If you don’t like the sound of either of these dishes, there are plenty of other options, and the food and wine were generally good quality and relatively inexpensive.
We’d particularly recommend a visit to Porto Moniz where cafes are dotted along the road, serving chicken and lamb cooked on giant skewers on a barbecue. It’s definitely a ‘no-frills’ dining experience, with everything served on paper plates, but the food was delicious.
But no visit to Madeira would be complete without sampling the Madeiran wine the island is famous for. This can be enjoyed as an aperitif, or the sweeter version, enjoyed with pudding.
8. Strolling around Câmara de Lobos
This traditional fishing village, around five kilometres from Funchal, is well worth a visit. The beautiful bay inspired Sir Winston Churchill to paint it, and you can find a statue of him just a few metres back from the sea.
Explorers João Gonçalves Zarco and Tristão Vaz Teixeira gave the village its name thanks to the many Mediterranean monk seals (‘lobos’) inhabiting the sea there.
A particular highlight was all the decorations, which made the town look wonderfully colourful. They were all made from recycled urban waste and looked stunning against the backdrop of colourful fishing boats.
9. Enjoying a cocktail at Reid’s Palace
Reid’s Palace is arguably the most famous hotel in Madeira, as Sir Winston Churchill wrote his biography there.
It’s not difficult to see why he chose Reid’s. Entering the hotel is a bit like stepping back in time. The cocktail bar has real old-world elegance, and there’s usually someone playing the piano whilst you enjoy a drink. There are also spectacular views over the bay of Funchal, making it the perfect place to sip on a sundowner.
10. Taking a dip at Poças do Gomes
Poças do Gomes is a small bathing complex in São Martinho, about an hour’s walk from central Funchal.
There are natural pools and direct access to the sea. You pay for entry, and there’s a snack bar where you can buy a basic lunch and drinks. Our boys loved being battered by the sea there, and it was a wonderful, refreshing place to swim.
Just up from the swimming area is a cave, which we enjoyed wandering through before setting off on the walk back to our hotel.
Final thoughts…
If you’re considering a holiday to Madeira, go for it! The island hugely surpassed my expectations, and there was still so much we didn’t get to see. It’s one of those locations that has something for everyone of all ages, and the people are wonderfully friendly and welcoming.
We’re already planning a return visit to see some of the places we didn’t go to. Several of the hiking trails look fantastic, so that’ll certainly be on the agenda, along with the Palheiro Gardens, properly exploring the port area of Funchal, and swimming in more of the many volcanic pools dotted around the coastline.
Have you travelled to Madeira before? Do you have any other tips for travelling there that you’d like to share? We’d love to hear from you in the comments below.
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