It’s almost impossible to have not heard of Rolex. The brand’s banners are everywhere at world-class sporting events; their watches grace the wrists of celebrities and (rich, successful) book characters. Rolexs are synonymous with power, wealth, and luxury.
But why? What’s all the hype about? And – even more intriguingly – is it justified?
First, let’s take a look at the history of the brand.
Step back in time to 1905
Rolex was originally founded in 1905 in London and was named, at the time, Wilsdorf & Davis – a reference to its founders, Hans Wilsdorf (a German businessman) and his brother-in-law Alfred Davis.
The company wasn’t registered as Rolex until 1908, eventually becoming Rolex Watch Co. Ltd in 1915 and relocating its headquarters to Geneva, Switzerland, in 1920. The company has been located there – the watchmaking capital of the world – ever since.
Why Rolex? Opinions differ as to how the name came about. Some say that it’s an onomatopoeia for how a watch sounds when it’s being wound up; others say it’s a mash-up of ‘horological excellence’ and ‘luxury.’
Whether or not the latter is true, these are words that Rolex is now firmly linked with.
But what inspired the brothers-in-law to create the brand? History has it that when men started wearing wristwatches, their fragility – compared to the traditional pocket watch – made them unpopular. They were subjected to knocks, bumps, and weather conditions.
Business-savvy Wilsdorf sensed that times were changing. With sport becoming an increasingly popular leisure activity, he suspected that pocket watches were on the way out and that wrist-worn timepieces would soon be admired for their practicality.
An epic swim
Perhaps the event to really put Rolex in the public eye was the Channel swim undertaken by Mercedes Gleitze who, at the age of 26, became the first British woman to swim the body of water between France and England.
She wore a Rolex Oyster – the world’s first waterproof watch – for the swim and, at the end of her 10+ hours in the Channel, the watch was determined to be in perfect working condition.
Wilsdorf took full advantage of her feat, taking out a full-page advertisement for Rolex in a national newspaper.
Gleite’s swim and Rolex’s part in it were all the more significant. This wasn’t only because she was a woman, but because, as mentioned above, watches had only recently transitioned from being worn in the pocket to being worn on the wrist, with more people taking up sport as a hobby being a major factor in this.
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The influence of popular culture
With Wilsdorf’s business acumen and media know-how, it was probably only a matter of time before Rolex watches entered the upper echelons of society, becoming a sought-after and admired status symbol – whether the wearer had any sporting ability or not.
Gleitze’s swim occurred when Hollywood was still making silent films. The following year, the first ‘talkie’ – The Jazz Singer – appeared and the Golden Age of Hollywood was in full swing. It was a time of wildly successful studio heads and media moguls, with both wielding immense power and earning vast amounts of money.
Naturally, Rolex watches were the horological choices of such men, starting the brand’s firm association with wealth and influence, as well as with sport.
Tellingly, Rolex is the only watch brand ever mentioned in Ian Fleming’s James Bond series – so, in 1962’s Dr No (the first ever Bond film), Sean Connery wore a Rolex Submariner with a black face in his role as the suave secret agent. Rolex’s role in popular culture was cemented.
Since then, several lead characters have worn a Rolex, including Paul Newman in 1986’s The Colour of Money. He wore a Rolex Datejust for his role as “Fast Eddie” Felson – coincidentally, also the role that won him his first ever Oscar.
The Rolex Datejust was also worn by Christian Bates when he played Patrick Bateman in 2000’s American Psycho. Given the horrific nature of the film, was it any wonder that Rolex was said to be unhappy about the main character wearing one of their timepieces?
Because of this, although the brand name is mentioned more than 20 times in Bret Easton Ellis’ book, most references to the watch were removed from the film.
Rolex in space and time
In 1971, Edgar Mitchell was one of the astronauts sent into space on NASA’s Apollo 14 mission. In doing so, he not only became the sixth-ever person to walk on the moon, but his Rolex GMT-Master also became the first ever Rolex worn on the moon.
Many other leaders in the field have worn Rolex timepieces. The man who uttered those famous words – “Houston, we have a problem” – was Apollo 13 Commander James Lovell, who was wearing a Rolex GMT Master at the time.
Also known as ‘the Pepsi watch’ because of its red and blue bezel, the Rolax GMT Master was a popular choice among NASA astronauts during early moon voyages, even though the official watch of NASA has, since 1965, been OMEGA.
OMEGA was originally developed in 1954 for Pan-Am airlines, meeting a need for a watch that could reliably and simultaneously display multiple time zones. Many astronauts wore their personal Rolexes along with the OMEGA, which formed part of their kit.
Some of these astronauts were Eugene Cernan of Apollo 10 and 17, and Jack Swigert, of Apollo 13. Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin also wore OMEGAs during their first landing on the moon, but there was a third man on that voyage.
Michael Collins may not have walked on the moon, but he kept Apollo 11 orbiting its sphere – and he wore a stainless steel Rolex Turn-a-Graph (the watch that introduced the rotating timing bezel) during his training. Off-duty, he wore a classic 18k yellow gold Rolex President Day-Date (Rolex’s flagship watch), which became his daily watch for 34 years.
Rolex as collector’s items
Understandably, many of the Rolex watches worn by these high-achievers have gained an even greater value because of the people who have worn them. Many have sold for millions at auction.
For instance, the ‘Pepsi’ watch worn by Edgar Mitchell and becoming the first watch on the moon sold for US$2,163,199 in October 2024.
And then there’s actor Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona, which was a gift from his wife in 1968. She bought it at Tiffany’s in New York, after Newman had been involved in a car accident.
Funnily enough, this watch wasn’t particularly popular when it was launched in 1963 and was often sold at a discount – it only took off in popularity once it became synonymous with the actor.
When it went under the hammer in 2017, nine years after Newman’s death, the watch was bought for US$17.75 million, setting a new world record for the most expensive watch to ever be sold at auction.
In the same year, the Rolex ‘Bao Dai,’ which was produced in the early 1950s, was auctioned for US$5.1 million. It had been commissioned and bought by the last Emperor of Vietnam in 1954.
With its triple calendar and moon phase display this watch, in yellow gold with a black dial, was one of only three models known to exist, and the only one to feature diamond markets on the watch face’s even numbers.
As we can see from this, while association with a famous person or event can cause a Rolex to have immense value when resold, rarity is also a factor for consideration.
Rolex – a rare breed
In fact, one of the key things that makes Rolexes so desirable, and helps them to retain their value, is the fact that they are only ever made in limited supplies – so, even before they’re sold brand new, they have a sense of exclusivity and desirability. Demand far outstrips supply, and waiting lists can be lengthy. As an example, Rolex produced 1.24 million watches in 2023. Every single one of them sold.
Buyers are also aware of the craftsmanship behind each watch. Rolex is known for its attention to detail, as well as for the fact that it’s one of the few luxury brands that retains complete control over every aspect of the manufacturing process.
This means that Rolex is intimately involved in product design – from the strap to the movement, and from the case to the materials used in making each watch. The result? Exceptional consistency and quality.
In fact, experts say that it’s almost impossible for a Rolex to depreciate in value, especially if you treat it with care. And with the average price of a Rolex standing at around £10,000…let’s face it, you’d probably want to treat it with care.
What are the most desirable Rolex watches?
That said, some Rolexes are seen as better investments than others. For instance, the amount that Paul Newman’s Daytona sold for has made this model incredibly sought after – even though none of them, aside from the one sold in 2017, have been worn by the actor.
The rarest of these – only somewhere between two and three thousand were ever produced – have the same dial as Newman’s watch. It’s known as an ‘exotic dial’ and has block markers instead of thin lines on the subdials, each of which also has a crosshair feature.
The Rolex Submariner – waterproof to depths of 300m – is another worthwhile investment. The average waiting list is six to 12 months, which, no doubt, adds to its desirability – as does its James Bond connection.
Top tip? If looking to buy second-hand, bear in mind that the 40mm model was discontinued in 2020 – so if you can get your hands on one of these, you’re almost certain to have a strong investment on your hands (or wrist, as the case may be).
According to Bloomberg, Rolexes increased their value by an average of 2.5% in 2023. One of the reasons for this is that the brand hasn’t done much in the way of changing its designs over the years – which means that if you buy, for example, a Submariner in 2025, it’ll look just like a Submariner from 1954.
So, a big part of Rolex’s longevity and value is timelessness and classic design – as well as the brand’s connections with stars of the screen, sports, and business stages.
It’s never too late for a straighter smile!
Start your journey to confidence today with the straighter smile specialists.
Book your free orthodontic consultation at one of Total Orthodontics’ practices, get a digital 3D scan of your teeth and discuss the treatment that’s right for you. With payment options to suit your budget, every treatment includes at-home whitening kits to ensure confidence like never before.
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Do Rolex design watches for women?
Even though it was a female swimmer who first brought Rolex to attention, it’s only since 1957 that Rolex has been designing and producing watches for women. Even so, some female celebrities, such as Jennifer Aniston, prefer to wear the chunkier men’s versions, including the 36mm yellow gold Rolex Day-Date President.
Other female celebrities seen wearing Rolexes include Victoria Beckham and Jennifer Lopez, as well as Sharon Stone and Charlize Theron.
Final thoughts…
Are Rolex watches worth the hype? When it comes to wanting a smart timepiece, which will look fabulous on your wrist and add to your status, allure, and presence, there’s no doubt that the Rolex is a worthwhile investment.
Not only do they hold their value but, in many cases, they’ll also appreciate. And even if you’re not looking to make a profit in your lifetime, a Rolex makes a fabulous heirloom to pass down to those who come after you.
What are your thoughts on Rolex? Have you ever owned a Rolex watch? We’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments below.
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It’s never too late for a straighter smile!
Start your journey to confidence today with the straighter smile specialists.
Book your free orthodontic consultation at one of Total Orthodontics’ practices, get a digital 3D scan of your teeth and discuss the treatment that’s right for you. With payment options to suit your budget, every treatment includes at-home whitening kits to ensure confidence like never before.
^Free consultations available at participating practices only.