Whether you have a special event coming up, need new threads for work, or are simply looking to boost your fashion game, the prospect of buying a new suit can feel overwhelming.
With all the fabrics, colours, and styles out there – not to mention all the fashion jargon involved – it can be tricky to know where to start.
So, to help, here are six key things to consider before buying a new suit – whether you’re shopping off the rack or heading to a tailor.
1. Suit colour
Colour choice is very personal and most shades can work when worn with confidence.
However, there are exceptions – for example, if you work in an industry where only conservative colours are appropriate, such as black, grey, or navy. Or, for a traditional funeral, you might want to stick to something dark.
If you don’t have colour restrictions to worry about though, the endless number of choices might seem daunting. Luckily, there are a couple of key considerations to help you decide…
Seasonality
As with all clothes, the time of year can affect what colour suits people choose. In winter, when the weather is dreary, darker colours are most popular. If you’re looking for something groovier than grey or navy, brown, burgundy, and olive green are unique choices.
In spring and summer, however, people often reach for lighter tones – from sand and stone to light blue and pastel pink.
Versatility
Suits are generally quite expensive, so many of us will only want to buy one or two. With that said, it’s worth choosing a versatile colour that pairs well with various accessories and can transition smoothly between occasions.
Most experts agree that navy blue and charcoal grey are the most adaptable suit colours. They go well with black, brown, and tan shoes and various shirt and tie colours.
Plus, they look equally good in the office, dressed down for an informal party, or paired with vibrant ties and pocket squares for weddings and other special occasions.
Skin undertone
To narrow down your suit search, you could also think about which colours go best with your skin’s natural undertone. We aren’t talking about the colour of your skin (i.e. how light or dark it is) but the tone beneath it. Your skin’s undertone can be either cool, warm, or neutral.
To find out what your skin’s undertone is and what colours compliment it, check out our article; 10 tips for dressing with colour and confidence.
2. Suit patterns and textures
Like colour, patterns and textures can inject some personality into your suit. Large and loud designs like checks are generally more suited to non-business occasions. Subtle textures, on the other hand, can help you express yourself in more buttoned-up environments like the office.
So, what are some of the most popular suit patterns and textures?
Stripes
We’ve all heard of pinstripes, popular amongst finance people and so-called because of how thin they are. However, there are plenty of stripe variations –, including thick ‘rope stripes’ and ‘chalk stripes’, which look like they’ve been drawn on with a tailor’s chalk.
In some professional settings, stripes are the only acceptable suit pattern, so they can help add a bit of swagger and sophistication to your business attire.
Checks
Like stripes, there are different types of checks, and the style you choose can have a big impact on your overall look.
For example, large, striking patterns – such as windowpanes – can make a bold statement and are probably more suitable for non-professional environments. While more low-key, intricate designs – such as the Prince of Wales check – can be more appropriate for businesswear.
Birdseye
So-called because of its dotted texture, birdseye weaves offer some visual interest up close but look solid from a distance. They’re great for those who’d like some extra flair but still want to fly under the radar.
Herringbone
This distinctive chevron texture is found on all sorts of garments – from thrift-shop sports coats to designer shorts – but it can also look great on a suit.
It’s usually associated with smart-casual looks (grey herringbone blazers are often dressed down with jeans). But very fine, understated versions can look good at work too.
Houndstooth
Also known as ‘dogstooth’, houndstooth textures are created by weaving fabrics into a jagged, checked pattern. You can find them in loud, large-scale versions, or subtle, smaller-scale ones (sometimes referred to as ‘puppytooth’).
Like herringbone, houndstooth suits look at home in a business casual setting. However, if you work in a more white-collar environment (for example, in finance), a plain weave is probably a better option.
3. Suit fabrics
While colour and patterns are usually the first things people think about when buying a suit, fabric is often little more than an afterthought. Yet, choosing the right fabric is key to feeling comfortable and confident in your new suit.
From silk to corduroy, there are plenty of different suit fabrics out there – but here are some of the most common…
Worsted wool
Worsted wool is the most popular suit fabric. It’s naturally insulating yet breathable, so it’ll help keep you warm in winter but cool in summer. Plus, it’s durable and wrinkle-resistant, helping you look sharper for longer.
However, there are lots of types of wool out there – including different weaves and weights. Which one you choose will depend on when you’re planning to wear your suit and for what occasion. Check out this article from Bespoke Unit to find out more.
Linen
For many, linen is the go-to material for a summer suit. It’s lightweight, breathable, and moisture-wicking, helping you stay cool on sultry days.
Linen isn’t as durable as wool, though, and it creases easily. But a few wrinkles are all part of the look.
Cotton
Another good choice for warmer weather, cotton is durable, breathable, lightweight, and comfortable. It’s also generally cheaper than linen.
Like linen, it’s typically a more casual option. So while cotton suits are perfect for outdoor weddings and garden parties, they often aren’t suited to more serious occasions – like weddings and job interviews.
Tweed
For many, the word ‘tweed’ conjures up images of old-school teachers with elbow patches and chalk-stained sleeves. But this sturdy wool weave can be a chic choice for a winter suit (just ask anyone who’s watched the BBC drama Peaky Blinders).
Flannel
This heavy, crease-resistant fabric is a common choice during the colder months. Plus, its famous fuzzy texture (called a ‘nap’) makes it very soft.
However, it’s worth noting that flannel isn’t as sturdy as worsted wool. It’s also prone to pilling (when little balls of material become stuck to the surface of clothing). But that’s nothing an electric bobble remover like this one from Amazon can’t fix.
4. Suit style
Aside from colour, pattern, and fabric, there are plenty of ways one suit can differ from the next. Below are a few common questions you might have when it comes to style.
Single or double-breasted?
If you aren’t sure what single or double-breasted means, it’s quite a simple distinction.
Single-breasted suits have one row of buttons, with the front flaps of the jacket meeting in the middle of your torso. Double-breasted ones, on the other hand, have multiple rows, and the jacket flaps fold over one another when done up.
If you’re looking for a versatile suit that works well in any context, the classic single-breasted look is a safe bet. Although, if you’re interested in making a statement at formal events like weddings, double-breasted could be the way to go.
One, two, or three buttons?
If you’re choosing a single-breasted suit, you might find yourself wondering, ‘Do I go for one, two, or three buttons?’
Nowadays, two-button suits are the most common option because they’re versatile and flattering, and should work well for anyone in any situation. If you’re looking for a work suit, most experts would recommend a two-button.
Three-button suits should be considered a little more carefully because of their filling-out effect. While this might suit leaner gentlemen who want to appear broader, if you’d like your suit to be slimming, it’s best to stay away from three-button styles. Generally, they’re also considered more formal than two-button ones.
As for single-button suits, these are the least popular option but can be a chic look for anyone who can pull them off.
As GQ says, single-button suits “can be the secret weapon for guys looking to cut a taller, leaner figure”. This is because single-button jackets create a longer V shape on the chest than two and three-button varieties, which can help you appear taller and slimmer.
Notch, peak, or shawl lapels?
Lapels come in three different styles…
- Notch – these are by far the most common type of lapels. Their distinctive V-shaped notch looks just at home at weddings as at funerals. If you’re unsure about which lapels to go for, conventional wisdom says stick with notched.
- Peak – these are a little more formal than their notched counterparts. They’re characterised by a high ‘peak’ that points upwards over the shoulder. This shape can elongate your frame, making you appear taller and more angular. For this reason, they’re a handy choice for shorter or broader gentlemen. Peak lapels look good on double-breasted jackets.
- Shawl – these are the most formal type of lapel. With no notches or peaks, they have a distinctive curved shape. Shawl lapels are generally reserved for fancy eveningwear, such as tuxedo jackets.
Two or three piece?
Whether you should choose a two or three-piece suit (i.e. with or without a waistcoat) will mostly come down to personal preference. Two-piece suits are generally considered more versatile, while three-pieces are typically reserved for formal occasions, such as weddings or days at the races.
However, you can dress down your three-piece for less fancy events by ditching the tie and swapping your dress shirt for something more funky and informal. Or, just leave the waistcoat at home when you don’t feel it’s appropriate.
5. Suit fit
Fit is one of the most important factors to consider when buying a suit. It doesn’t matter whether you’ve chosen the perfect fabric, colour, and pattern, if your suit doesn’t fit well, the odds are, it won’t look its best.
With this in mind, before you head to the shops, it’s worth understanding how a suit should fit. This is especially important if you’re buying off the rack.
Shoulders
When examining your suit, preferably in a tri-fold mirror, try starting from the top down. For a perfect fit, the shoulder seam of your jacket should end exactly where your shoulder does.
To test whether it’s the correct size or not, try leaning against a wall. If the shoulder pad and your shoulder touch the wall at the same time, you’ve picked a well-fitting jacket.
Torso
When you do up the top button of your jacket, it should fasten without any tightness. The lapels should also lie flat on your chest, instead of bowing out or leaving a gap between your jacket and shirt collar.
When you slide your thumb between the button and your stomach, it should feel snug, not overly tight or loose.
According to GQ, most men overestimate their jacket size, so if you think you’re a 40, try giving a 38 a whirl. And if it still doesn’t fit, choose a different brand.
Arms
Generally, you want the arms of your suit jacket to be snug but not too tight. If you can see or feel any twisting, creasing, or pulling, it’s probably too small. Remember, you don’t want to risk ripping your precious threads every time you reach for a drink or wave someone goodbye.
As for the length, most people agree that when your arms are by your sides, your sleeves should finish at your wrist bone. A good rule of thumb is you should be able to see half an inch of shirt cuff.
However, try not to worry too much about how your sleeves fit off the rack because a tailor can usually fix any bagginess or extra length.
Trousers
Most people agree that the hem of your suit trousers should just kiss or hover above the tops of your shoes. The waist should sit comfortably without falling off your hips – and you generally shouldn’t need a belt. But, again, you always can get trousers tailored for the perfect fit.
6. Suit tailoring
As we’ve mentioned, when buying off the rack, not every aspect of your suit needs to fit perfectly because you can get a tailor to make some alterations after the fact.
However, there are some things a tailor won’t be able to fix, so it’s worth getting to know what they can and can’t.
Tailors can’t change shoulder width
The number one thing to bear in mind when it comes to tailoring is that it’s generally impossible to change the width of a jacket’s shoulder. So it’s important to make sure the shoulder fit is perfect before parting with any cash.
Don’t assume your tailor can make your suit bigger or longer
While tailors can generally make some parts of your suit shorter or smaller, making them bigger or longer is often off the table. In some cases, they might be able to extend certain areas, like the arms and trousers, but this all depends on how much extra material is tucked away at the seams and hems.
With this in mind, if you need a bit of tailoring done to perfect the fit of your suit, always go slightly bigger, rather than smaller.
Arms and trousers are the easiest parts to alter
Because of their simple structure, arms and trousers are the easiest parts of a suit to alter. Your friendly neighbourhood tailor should be able to narrow, shorten, or (depending on the available fabric) lengthen your trousers and jacket arms. But, in many cases, they won’t be able to make them wider.
You can generally get the waist of a jacket taken in
If the waist of your jacket feels a little loose, a tailor should be able to take it in for you. This is a great alteration to remember in future if you lose a little weight.
Final thoughts…
From colours, patterns, and fabrics to style details, there’s plenty to consider before buying a new suit. Understanding how a suit should fit and what a tailor can fix can also help you make informed decisions when shopping around.
With these points in mind, hopefully, you’ll feel confident to find a suit that not only looks great but makes you feel it too.
For more clothing advice and inspiration, why not head over to our fashion and beauty section? Here, you’ll find a wide range of articles – from What is fast fashion and what are the alternatives? to 10 timeless and versatile wardrobe essentials for men.
Have you recently bought a suit? Do you have any other considerations to add? We’d love to hear from you in the comments below.