It was back in July 2012 that my partner John and I visited Poland on a week-long group tour with Fregata Travel. My only previous visit to Poland was in 1972 as part of an East European minibus tour. What a difference 40 years makes!
In 1972, Poland was grey and dreary, and communism permeated every aspect of life. Nowadays, Poland is colourful, vibrant and thriving, with so much lovely food – and eating pickled vegetables is now a matter of choice, not the only option.
Poland is also a large country, one of the biggest in Europe. It has a mix of landscapes, ranging from the Baltic Sea coast in the north and vast flat plains in the centre, to the snowy Tatra Mountains in the south – with more lakes than any other European country, apart from Finland.
It’s a nation with a difficult past, even disappearing completely from the maps for 123 years, from 1795-1918. World War Two saw the destruction of many buildings, as well as the genocide of many of the Jewish population.
Most organised trips to Poland tend to visit the same unmissable places, so here’s my list of the seven I’ve been to, in the order in which we visited them.
1. Warsaw
Warsaw’s Old Town
Warsaw, the capital of Poland, is a good starting point for a trip to Poland. The city has seen a phenomenal period of rebuilding after the end of World War Two when only 15% of its buildings were left standing. The enormity of this rebuild is said to reflect the spirit and resilience of the Polish people.
The city is also the only one in Poland to have a metro system as, elsewhere, trams are the main form of transport. And, good job, as there’s plenty to see here. You may like to see the former home of Maria Skladowska who became Marie Curie, and the winner of two Nobel Prizes. Interestingly, she named one of the elements she discovered, Polonium, after her native country.
We also loved visiting the striking Frédéric Chopin Monument in the Lazienki Royal Park. Concerts are held next to the monument in summer. And, I must say, sitting on the Chopin benches that play music is a bit of a novelty.
Castle Square contains the huge Sigmund III Vasa Column, erected in 1644 and dedicated to the King who moved the capital from Krakow to Warsaw. The Castle, the seat of the Kings of Poland, was built in the 14th century and largely rebuilt in the 1970s and 80s. The Canaletto Room containing 23 paintings by the artist is well worth a visit, as is the stunning ballroom.
A more difficult place to visit is the Umschlagplatz Monument, which means the ‘taking away place’ in Stawki Street, which formed part of the Warsaw Ghetto. From 1942 to 1943, Germans transported over 300,000 Jews from the Warsaw Ghetto to the death camp in Treblinka. This is a part of Polish history that I knew little about and the horror of it is difficult to comprehend.
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2. Czestochowa and the Jasna Gora Monastery
Jasna Gora Monastery. Credit Sue Ablett
Approximately two hours southwest of Warsaw is the city of Czestochowa. The road appears to be permanently under construction but, unlike 40 years ago, there are plenty of petrol stations, rest stops, shops, and good toilets.
It’s in Czestochowa where you’ll find the Jasna Gora Monastery. Founded in 1382 by Hungarian monks, the Monastery is home to the famous Black Madonna Shrine and makes this Poland’s spiritual heartland – the equivalent of Lourdes or Fatima.
The Black Madonna is believed to have been painted by St Luke and brought to Jasna Gora from Jerusalem via Constantinople. It’s unveiled twice daily, at 6 am and 1.30 pm, and attracts some 4-5 million visitors from 80 countries, each year. I wouldn’t describe myself as in any way religious, but, regardless, it was certainly an awe-inspiring experience.
Black Madonna Shrine. Credit Sue Ablett
3. Zakopane
Main street Zakopane. Credit Sue Ablett
After another four hours on the road, we arrived at the gorgeous little town of Zakopane. At the foot of the Tatra Mountains, this is Poland’s highest town – though only at an altitude of 850 metres. It’s renowned for its alpine-style architecture, with many beautiful 19th-century timber buildings.
A world away from Warsaw, Zakopane saw an influx of artists and composers in the 1980s, and it’s now popular with tourists. It’s also a good place for shopping, as it’s a centre for the Gorale (mountain people), selling folk art and produce – particularly smoked sheep’s cheese. Sadly, I’m not a cheese eater but they did look stunning!
Smoked sheep’s cheese. Credit Sue Ablett
Poland is very religious with plenty of churches, and around 95% of the population is Catholic. Zakopane’s Jaszczurowka Chapel is a must-see for a great example of wooden architecture, built without a single nail.
Finally, while in Zakopane, you might like to take the funicular or walk up to the top of Gubalowka Mountain, a popular winter ski area, and another chance to experience the traditions and food of the Highlanders (Gorale). We were short on time so took the funicular up and walked down, which felt a pretty good way to do it.
4. Pieniny National Park
Rafting on the Dunajec River
Before continuing to Krakow, we took a lovely rafting trip on the Dunajec River in Pieniny National Park. This is one of Poland’s smallest national parks, with a beautiful mountain range. The rafting certainly isn’t a whitewater experience but a leisurely pleasure trip with no hint of danger, which suited me just fine.
Rafting in Pieniny National Park dates back to the mid-19th century when it was a means of transportation and trade, used to move goods like timber downstream. But, as the tourism industry grew, the raft trips transitioned from being purely functional to recreational — and, today, the raft trip attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors each year.
The ‘raft’ itself is a set of five narrow six-metre-long coffin-like canoes, lashed together with rope. They hold 10-12 passengers and are steered by two raftsmen, each decked out in embroidered folk costume and armed with long poles to steer.
5. Krakow
Wawel Castle, Krakow
Krakow is the third largest city in Poland and the old city is absolutely gorgeous. A lot of people seem to come to Krakow just for the weekend. If you do, be sure to stay at a hotel in the heart of the old city. Many group tours tend to stay outside the city, involving a bus ride in to see the sights.
Krakow has been on the UNESCO World Heritage list since 1978. Miraculously it was undamaged in World War Two, so the original Romanesque and Baroque buildings remain. It was located on important trade routes and became the capital of Poland in 1038 until 1596 when it moved to Warsaw.
If you like sitting at pavement cafes, watching the world go by, and sampling some of the most beautiful and delicious pastries you can imagine, Krakow is definitely for you. I was certainly in heaven there.
Main Square, Krakow. Credit Sue Ablett
Krakow is home to Wawel Royal Castle and Wawel Cathedral. No photos are allowed inside the Cathedral but it’s where Polish kings have always been crowned and buried.
St Mary’s Basilica, adjacent to the Main Market Square, dates back to the 14th century and is one of the best examples of Polish Gothic architecture. It’s particularly famous for its wooden altarpiece, which is uncovered and covered daily. A climb to the top of the tower involves many steps but we were glad we persevered for incredible rooftop views of the city.
The Basilica has another ‘must-see’ feature. On the hour, 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, a trumpet signal is played from the top of the taller of the two towers. Called the Hejnal Mariacki, the tune breaks off in mid-stream to commemorate a famous 13th-century trumpeter who was shot while sounding the alarm before a Mongol attack on the city. It’s really quite atmospheric.
But probably the finest building in Krakow is the Cloth Hall. The current building was rebuilt in the mid-16th century but there’s been a trading place on this site since the 13th century. Originally textiles would have been traded here, as well as spices and silks.
6. Auschwitz
Auschwitz entrance. Credit: Sue Ablett
Not far from Krakow is the former concentration camp of Auschwitz and an opportunity to visit the Martyrdom Museum of the famous ‘factory of death’. Visiting is described in some guidebooks as “a chilling and unforgettable experience.” I would certainly agree with that but for those of us fortunate enough to never have known the horrors of war, it feels important to visit and gain an understanding.
We had a fabulous guide who had been working here for 20 years. Showing people around the site and retelling the stories of Auschwitz day after day can’t be easy but he felt very strongly that it was a story that must be told. It was one experience I’ll never forget.
The concentration camp was built in 1940 and was the scene of the largest attempt at genocide in human history. Initially built as a small prison for political prisoners, the camp was repurposed as a dedicated centre for the wholescale extermination of Jews in Europe. The entrance with the sign Arbeit Macht Frei (meaning ‘work makes you free’) gives no sense of what lies within.
It was certainly a harrowing visit, particularly seeing some of the exhibits but it’s well done, and there’s a strange beauty and peace about the place now that many have commented on.
7. Wieliczka Salt Mines
Wieliczka Salt Mines
Described as “the best day trip out of Krakow”, are the Wieliczka Salt Mines, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. At 700 years old, these are the oldest working salt mines in the country. Salt extraction using mining methods was discontinued in 1996 but salt is still produced here. The Mine consists of three levels with the deepest at 443 feet below the surface.
This is an unforgettable tourist attraction with underground chambers, grottoes, and chapels carved from salt by sculptor miners. Particularly stunning is the Chapel of Blessed Kings, all of which is made from salt.
If you’re not happy going deep underground, maybe this isn’t the place for you. But it’s such an incredible place that it’s worth overcoming those fears. And there are very efficient lifts to take you up and down.
A visit to the salt mines tends to end with dinner and a folklore show in a local restaurant. The dancing and musicianship were great – really foot-tapping stuff. And the food was interesting – a hollowed-out loaf of bread filled with a kind of hunter’s stew is a typical Polish delicacy. I found it left the bread pretty soggy – I prefer my bread and stew on two separate plates!
A folklore evening. Credit Sue Ablett
Final thoughts…
The transformation of Poland was a real eye-opener for me. I was particularly struck by the range and quality of food now on offer.
Of course, group travel has its advantages and gives a really good introduction to a country. But I would love to go back to Krakow for a short visit, staying in the old city, exploring at leisure, and certainly taking in some of the fabulous cafes and cake shops!
Have you been to Poland? Or perhaps it’s on your travel list? We’d love to hear from you in the comments below.