Back in March 2015, my partner John and I embarked on a trip with Great Rail Journeys. It took us to Kolkata (formerly Calcutta) and Darjeeling in India before we crossed the border into Bhutan.
Often called ‘the last Himalayan Kingdom’, Bhutan is a magical, mystical, and utterly fascinating country that not many people get to visit. So, as you might expect, our trip was a truly unforgettable experience.
There are four entry roads leading into Bhutan and just one airport. We entered at Phuentsholing, a town on the south-west border, before heading to the capital, Thimphu. From there, we made our way north to the stunning town of Punakha before heading back past Thimpu to the airport at Paro.
Parts of Bhutan are off-limits to foreigners and many roads are constantly under construction, which can make travelling very slow. Our visit was restricted to the country’s west where the main towns are found. Yet, despite these restrictions, the minute you cross the border from India, it’s clear you’re entering a very different world.
There are so many wonderful things to see and do in Bhutan. But, to give you a taste of what this enchanting country can offer, I’ve selected seven of my favourite experiences.
1. Getting immersed in Bhutan’s culture and heritage
One of the best parts of visiting Bhutan is simply learning about its unique culture and heritage. It’s a country I knew virtually nothing about, and I love finding out about different cultures as I travel. While this trip was certainly a big learning curve for both of us, it’s one we‘ve never forgotten.
Bhutan is a landlocked, mountainous country high in the Himalayas that’s largely unexplored by Westerners. It has a population of less than a million people, mostly Buddhists, and is famous for prioritising Gross National Happiness (GNH) over other success indicators like Gross National Product (GNP).
This once-isolated kingdom is changing, but slowly. Until the 1960s, it was relatively cut off from the outside world with virtually no tourists. The first paved road was only built here in 1960. Television and the internet were introduced in 1999, with mobile phones arriving four years later.
To protect the environment, plastic bags are banned. Plus, there’s no Western-style advertising, and all buildings are built in Bhutanese style, with very ornate decorations.
However, despite these recent changes, Bhutan is keen to preserve its culture and heritage. The national dress – which is the gho for men and boys and a floor-length dress called a kira for women and girls – is very distinctive. It’s compulsory for all Bhutanese people to wear it on formal occasions and in schools and government offices.
2. Discovering Bhutan’s unique capital city
Thimpu is one of the world’s most intriguing capitals. Twenty years ago, it was a one-street town. Now, it’s something of a concrete jungle. Amazingly, it’s said that Thimpu and the country have witnessed more change in the last 60 years than in the previous 400.
One charming thing that makes Thimpu unique is that it’s the only capital city in the world with no traffic lights. As part of the recent modernisation of the city, a set was installed – the only one in the country. However, it only lasted 24 hours!
There were complaints that the traffic lights were too impersonal and weren’t needed – after all, there aren’t many cars here. Instead, locals and visitors can enjoy watching white-gloved policemen directing what little traffic there is with flamboyant hand movements. Personally, I found the lack of cars an absolute joy – crossing the street here felt much safer than in many other parts of the world.
One of the highlights of visiting Thimpu is the majestic Memorial Chorten, a stupa (traditional Buddhist monument) built in 1974 to commemorate the third king of Bhutan by his mother. It’s one of the most visible religious structures in Thimpu and, for many Bhutanese, the focus of daily worship.
Throughout the day, people circumambulate the stupa, whirl large prayer wheels, and worship at a small shrine inside the gate. You can sometimes feel a bit of a voyeur watching people at prayer, but no one seemed to mind here.
The Memorial Chorten
3. Witnessing Bhutan’s stunning architecture
The Punakha Dzong
Although Bhutan had no telephones, schools, hospitals, national currency, or postal service until the 1960s, it has many striking buildings that are centuries old.
Perhaps the most impressive building of all is the Punakha Dzong, which lies north of Thimpu in the picturesque town of Punakha. A dzong is a distinctive fortified monastery found mainly in Bhutan and Tibet. It’s a massive structure with exterior walls, inner courtyards, and temples, all boasting ornate decoration.
Punakha served as Bhutan’s capital for over 300 years. It was here that the first king was crowned in 1907. And, in 2008, the fifth king underwent a secret ceremony within its intricate walls, where he received the royal Raven Crown, before proceeding to a formal ceremony in Thimpu.
While the Punakha Dzong is considered the most beautiful structure in the country, its surroundings – a fertile valley at the junction of the Mo Chhu (Mother River) and Po Chhu (Father River) – are just as stunning. Construction started in 1637 and was completed the following year. And, today, it remains an active monastery.
I have to say that the age, enormity, and sheer beauty of this complex – not to mention its jaw-dropping location – made a huge impression on me. I loved it!
4. Learning about the Buddhist way of life
Buddha Point. Credit Sue Ablett
Bhutan is a deeply religious country where Buddhism permeates every aspect of life. Prayer flags flutter around every corner; prayer wheels spin, often powered by mountain streams; and images of the Buddha are carved into the cliffs. Buddhism was first introduced here in the second century, but the first Bhutanese Buddhist temples date back to the 600s.
The colours of the prayer flags are symbolic, with each colour representing one of the five elements: blue for the sky, white for the air, red for fire, green for water, and yellow for the earth.
The enormous Buddha statue pictured above commands the entrance to the Thimpu Valley and is well worth a visit. It’s 50 metres tall and weighs around 600 tonnes. Astonishingly, it’s filled with 125,000 smaller statues of the Buddha.
The statue was made in China, cut into pieces, and shipped to India before making its way to Bhutan, where it was reassembled.
Over the years, on my travels, I’ve come across quite a few huge Buddha statues. Bizarrely, they all claim to be the biggest in the world. But I don’t think it really matters whether this one is or isn’t; it was certainly eye-catching and just one of the many features of this country that I still think about today.
5. Watching Bhutan’s national sport
Bows and arrows have long been a key part of Bhutanese culture, both for hunting and defence, meaning it’s not surprising that archery has been the national sport since 1971. So, if you find yourself in this isolated kingdom, why not watch some?
Archery in Bhutan is a fascinating spectator sport. The high-tech bows are made of carbon and the target, which isn’t very big, sits at an incredible distance of 145 metres (or 476 feet) away from the archer.
I’ve tried my hand at archery before, and I didn’t find it very easy. However, this made watching the experts in Bhutan hit a target from further than the length of a football pitch away all the more impressive.
Archery is still mainly male-dominated, and it’s the one sport in which Bhutan is represented at the Olympics. Competitors have to wear the national dress (the traditional gho), and each time they score a hit they’re awarded a coloured scarf. It’s the number of scarves, not the colour, that’s important, and every hit is celebrated with a song and dance.
6. Experiencing Bhutanese hospitality
Tea and cake on offer. Credit: Sue Ablett
A typically friendly greeting. Credit: Sue Ablett
The people we met on our travels were all very friendly. Despite the language barrier, we were constantly greeted with huge smiles. And everywhere we went, people were happy to be photographed.
We experienced the ultimate example of Bhutanese hospitality in Thimpu, in what was a fabulous and somewhat bizarre experience. We found ourselves looking at what turned out to be a housewarming party. There was singing and dancing, and everyone was clearly enjoying themselves. Then it all got a bit embarrassing as we were invited to join the party and have tea and cake.
Being invited would have been enough, but then some of the honoured guests were asked to move from the front row so we could have the best view of the entertainment. It turns out our host had studied in Manchester and just loved the English!
While on the subject of hospitality, the standard of the hotels we stayed in was a revelation. They were fabulous and some of the most sumptuous rooms I’ve ever been in – they certainly had some of the biggest bathrooms and baths!
7. Trekking to Tiger’s Nest Monastery
Tiger’s Nest Monastery
Tiger’s Nest Monastery is a holy place and pilgrimage destination. It’s the most famous and photographed place in Bhutan. Sitting some 900 feet above the valley floor on the edge of a sheer cliff, the setting is stunning.
The original monastery was built in 1692 around a holy cave. Here, Guru Rimpoche, one of Bhutan’s most important historical and religious figures, is believed to have meditated, having arrived on the back of a flying tiger.
Over the centuries there have been several fires and the monastery was rebuilt between 2000-2005. On that occasion, to get building materials to the site, a chair lift was put in place across the valley, though there was no such luxury when it was originally built in 1692.
Located not far from the city of Paro, a visit to the Tiger’s Nest involves an early start for those undertaking the six-hour trek to the top and back. In the absence of any magic tigers, you can take a horse part of the way up and walk the final stage. Or you can walk all the way if you fancy a challenge.
Altitude can be an issue for hikers. The trek starts at about 7,500 feet, goes to the restaurant area at 8,500 feet, and then on to the Monastery itself at 10,500 feet. There are also 700 steps up and down. I was actually in the final stages of training for the London Marathon, so was in great shape and managed just fine. It’s a long way, but the views of the Monastery on the trail, and the panoramas from the Monastery itself, were worth every step.
Still a good few steps to go! Credit: Sue Ablett
Final thoughts…
Visiting a country like Bhutan feels like a real privilege and the trek to Tiger’s Nest Monastery is up there among the very best holiday experiences I’ve ever had.
One piece of advice I was given before our flight from Paro, which I shall share here, was to make sure I sat on the right-hand side of the plane. I was also told that Paro Airport is the eighth scariest in the world to fly into – because of the mountains – but that flying out is fine!
In the end, I did get a seat on the right-hand side, and the view – first of all of Kanchenjunga (the world’s third-highest mountain) and then of Everest as we flew by at the same altitude – really was the icing on the cake of an incredible trip.
To hear more about Sue’s adventures, why not read her highlights from Marseille and Sicily? And, for some more ideas to satisfy your wanderlust, head over to our travel section. You can also explore our top travel deals by using the button below.
Have you been to Bhutan? Or perhaps it’s on your travel list? We’d love to hear from you in the comments below.