Partner John and I love far-flung holiday destinations and also wildlife. So it was inevitable that a trip to Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands would be high on our bucket list. We finally made it in September 2016.
Many people head straight to the Galapagos Islands and spend little, if any, time in mainland Ecuador. But our tailor-made trip with Cox and Kings allowed us to see both.
Ecuador is the smallest of the Andean countries consisting of four distinct geographical regions – coastal plain, mountains, jungle, and the Galapagos Islands 600 miles away. It sits on the equator, after which the country is named.
We had 10 days in mainland Ecuador and this trip had so many highlights that it’s difficult to select my favourites. But, here are 10 of the very best things to see and do in Ecuador.
1. Stand astride the Equator
The Equator line
Not far north of the capital, Quito, a monument called La Mitad del Mundo (The Middle of the Earth) marks the equator. This imaginary 24,000-mile line around the world passes through 13 countries on three continents, but Ecuador is the only site on the planet where the equatorial line crosses over highlands.
I’ve crossed the equator in various countries and, wherever you go, there are always people ready to show you how, south of the equator, water goes down the plug hole in one direction and, in the north, the other way around.
It’s impossible to visit the most visited tourist attraction in Ecuador and not take a typically touristic photo. Here, I’m standing with one foot in the southern hemisphere and the other in the north.
Astride the Equator. Credit: Sue Ablett
2. Enjoy stunning architecture
La Compaňía de Jesus
Ecuador enjoys a fascinating history, and this is reflected in stunning architecture. The arrival of the Spaniards in 1526 marked the start of three centuries of Spanish colonial rule. There are churches and beautiful colonial buildings galore. La Compaňía de Jesus in Quito, which dates from 1605, is perhaps the best example of a Jesuit church and the most ornate church in Ecuador.
Some of my favourite buildings were the haciendas (estates) we stayed in or stopped at for lunch. The Hacienda la Ciénega, built in the mid-1600s and occupied by the same family for 300 years, was a beautiful lunch stop.
3. Visit local markets
A typical Ecuadorian market
The markets in Ecuador were a feast for the senses, offering an amazing array of fruits, vegetables, flowers, and traditional handicrafts. These vibrant hubs are important meeting places for locals, many of whom travel from remote villages on market days to trade goods and buy supplies.
Travelling north of Quito on the Pan-American Highway, we reached Otavalo, Ecuador’s most famous market town. The Otavalo market, dating back to pre-Inca times, has traditionally been a place where jungle products are traded with those from the highlands. Woven products are the most common handicrafts on offer and a visit here does feel like experiencing an authentic slice of Ecuadorian life.
An interesting fact: over 350 potato varieties are grown in Ecuador, mostly above 3,000 meters (or just under 10,000 feet) on what is known as ‘the potato line’.
4. Get up close to active volcanoes
Chimborazo volcano
The Andes in Ecuador form a magnificent ladder-like structure, with the east and west ranges creating a chain punctuated by high mountain valleys. This breathtaking landscape boasts seven peaks towering over 17,000 feet, including two of the world’s most active volcanoes.
Travelling south from the city of Quito to that of Cuenca along the Avenue of the Volcanoes – a 200-mile stretch of the Andes – you’ll reach Cotopaxi National Park. Cotopaxi is the second-highest mountain in Ecuador and the highest active volcano in the country.
Before getting too close to Cotopaxi, we had to sign an interesting waiver clause. Luckily, there were plenty of emergency warning procedures in place and all was fine.
Our second volcano experience was to watch the sunset over the summit of Chimborazo. At 20,702 feet, Chimborazo is the highest volcano in Ecuador. It’s still considered an active volcano, though, reassuringly, its last eruption was about 1500 years ago.
5. Visit a rose grower
Harvesting at a rose plantation
We might think of roses as being typically English but they’re hugely important to the economy of Ecuador. Roses are the third biggest export after oil and bananas, just ahead of shrimps. In Ecuador, they’re only grown in the area of the equator, which gives ideal growing conditions, which means they grow straight up with very long stems.
We visited a rose grower, one of 200 in the country, that exports a staggering 17 million roses a year. Lunch was served in the hacienda where six generations of the same family have lived.
The rooms were full of roses – around 2,000 blooms. They were beautiful but what struck me the most was the complete lack of scent. The colour and length of the stem are seen as important but not fragrance.
6. Treat yourself to a Panama hat
Panama hat weaving
There’s a misconception that Panama hats come from Panama but they don’t. A true Panama hat comes from Ecuador. The name comes from the fact that they were originally shipped out via the Panama Canal.
The straw for the hats grows on the coast in Ecuador. Women buy the straw from markets to take home and weave the basic hat shape. They are then taken into factories where they’re woven, edged, trimmed, washed, bleached, dried, and finished.
There are variations depending on style and the closeness of the weave. The ultimate Panama is known as the ‘superfino’, with 3,000 weaves per square inch. They hold water and can be rolled up and passed through a wedding ring. John was seriously tempted but decided to stick with his old baseball cap!
7. Enjoy Ecuadorian costumes and culture
Traditional Saraguro costumes. Credit: Sue Ablett
Ecuadorian costumes for men and women are very distinctive and worn with great pride – and there’s considerable variation as you travel through the country. For example, in the market town of Otavalo, embroidered blouses with long skirts and shawls are the norm for women, while the men traditionally have long pigtails, white trousers, and blue ponchos.
Much further south Saraguro is the centre of one of the most distinctive of the highland groups in Ecuador, they have a very unique style of dress. The men wear black ponchos with black knee-length shorts, short black Wellington boots, and a single pigtail. Saraguro women and girls wear black pleated skirts with hand-woven black shawls held in place by elaborate silver ornamental brooches, and very distinctive hats somewhat reminiscent of a Friesian cow!
Ecuadorian cuisine varies across the country too. There was never a shortage of fresh fruit and vegetables and, as a vegetarian, I ate extremely well. The meat and fish eaters didn’t go hungry either.
One item of Ecuadorian food that might not appeal to everyone, though is apparently very tasty, is cuy (guinea pig). They’re eaten in the area where the Incas lived, as well as in Peru and Bolivia. Cuy are traditionally skewered and cooked on an open fire. Even if I wasn’t a vegetarian, I have too many fond memories of my guinea pig pets to be tempted!
Roasted guinea pig. Credit: Sue Ablett
8. Visit Inca ruins
The history of Ecuador begins with the Incas in the 1400s. In 1526, the Inca Huyana Capa died, leaving his empire jointly to his two sons, so dividing the Inca empire for the first time. Within a few years of the arrival of the Spanish, the Inca civilization and all buildings had virtually disappeared.
Ecuador’s finest Inca ruins are found at Ingapirca, two hours from Cuenca. It’s a vast complex which formed an important stopping point on the Inca Trail for runners carrying imperial messages from Quito to Cuenca.
Standing on this huge site it’s difficult not to be impressed with the scale and the standard of the stonework.
9. Follow in the footsteps of Darwin
Marine iguanas on the beach on Santa Cruz Island
On to the Galapagos and it’s tricky to describe the thrill of spotting the Galapagos Islands from the air. We flew from Guayaquil, Ecuador’s largest city and chief port. There are 18 main Galapagos islands, the most recent of which (Isabela and Fernandina) are still forming due to volcanic activity.
Just four islands are inhabited but I was surprised to learn there’s a total population of about 30,000, 20,000 of whom are in the capital, Santa Cruz.
It was on 15th September 1835 that Charles Darwin first set foot on the islands. He wasn’t impressed and wrote in his diary “Nothing could be less inviting than the first appearance.” But as is well known, it was Darwin’s observations of the finches on Galapagos that subsequently led to his writing On the Origin of Species.
To finally set foot on these precious islands, following in the footsteps of Darwin, felt a huge privilege. It was difficult to contain our excitement at what was to come.
10. Encounter extraordinary wildlife
The ultimate Galapagos photo! Credit: Sue Ablett
I had two main wildlife targets – the giant tortoises, and the blue-footed booby. Everything else was going to be a bonus. We were only on our first island when we came upon the giant tortoises and they’re huge, with the biggest weighing up to 500 pounds. For such big creatures, they can move surprisingly fast.
I don’t travel well by sea so was a bit anxious as we stayed on a boat for five days. Luckily, the seas were calm and we spent lots of time ashore every day, literally almost falling over amazing animals and birds. Climbing over heaps of marine iguanas, or “imps of darkness” as Darwin called them, was one of many unforgettable experiences.
Blue-footed booby. Credit: Sue Ablett
Sue with marine iguana. Credit: Sue Ablett
Final thoughts…
We were so pleased that we’d chosen to spend plenty of time on mainland Ecuador before heading to the Galapagos. It’s a beautiful and fascinating country and time on Galapagos was the perfect ending. We might have seen it all on TV, but the thrill of being there in person is tricky to describe.
Have you been to Ecuador? Or perhaps it’s on your travel list? We’d love to hear from you in the comments below.