As much as a ‘natural look’ never goes out of style, nor does a ‘smokey eye’ – that dramatic, sultry look that involves darker shades and the creation of depth. And with one of the first proponents of the smokey eye being the incomparable Marlene Dietrich, it’s no wonder that the look – which caught on in the decadent Gatsby-esque era – remains popular today.
Dietrich is said to have used soot and Vaseline to create her look by burning a candle beneath a saucer and mixing the two components. But there are now many less arduous ways to get the look.
We mentioned the natural look above and, for lovers of that fresh-faced, barely-there approach to make-up, the smokey eye will, understandably, seem to be at the opposite end of the scale – but, that’s part of its appeal. And, there’s something somewhat natural about a smokey eye. It’s the make-up equivalent of bedhead – that tousled, just-woke-up-like-this look. It’s a little bit unkempt and, therefore, really rather sexy.
Another benefit of dark eye make-up – whether that’s a smokey eye or lashings of mascara or eyeliner – is that it contrasts with the whites of your eyes and makes them look brighter.
As with that ‘just-got-out-of-bed’ look though, the smokey eye still takes some effort. Appearing casually glamorous is rarely a three-second job, though this doesn’t mean it has to take ages either.
With this in mind – and leaving Dietrich’s candle and saucer in the past – here are some tips and tricks you can employ to create a sassy, sultry, smokey eye.
1. Consider your eye shape
As with any type of make-up, the shape of your eyes will have an impact on how you apply your products. Are your eyes hooded? Almond shaped? Round? Upturned? Are they widely spaced, or close together?
It can be difficult to determine what your eye ‘type’ is so it might be useful to go to a make-up counter in a department store, where experts will be able to give you insights into what shape your eyes can best be described as, and how to accentuate them accordingly.
2. Understand the elements of a smokey eye
The Dietrich method seems simple enough, right? Take a dark colour, and apply it smudgily to your eyes.
Things have moved on considerably, however, and make-up artistry has taken the smokey eye up several notches. That’s not to say that it’s impossibly difficult to achieve, however – just that if you understand the elements of the look, it will typically come together more easily.
While many eyeshadow applications involve the use of a single, block colour, a smokey eye is more about blending and diffusing, to create depth.
At a pinch, this can be achieved by using it heavily over the inner eye and fading it out towards the edges, but to really nail the smokey eye, you’ll need a variety of textures and shades, which you’ll layer.
3. Prepare your eyelids
Priming your skin before putting on any make-up is essential for its longevity, as well as a smooth application. Primer is especially important for mature skin, as it helps diminish the appearance of fine lines or creases – again, helping make-up to glide on seamlessly.
There are many eye-priming products on the market, so it can be easy to get confused by the different names – but, eyelid primer, eyeshadow primer, and eye primer all do the same job.
Avoid, however, using regular facial primer on your eyes. As the skin around the eye area is known to be more delicate than that on the rest of the face, it’s better to use an eye-specific primer, which will be less heavy and more kind to the thinner eye-area skin.
See below for some examples of quality primers that are considered to work well for more mature eyes.
Elizabeth Arden Advanced Eye-Fix Prime
Boots, £23
Elizabeth Arden Advanced Eye-Fix Prime has a 4.5-star customer rating and comments along the lines of “my shadow NEVER creases” and “The primer helps my eye make-up stay put. It is the greatest product I have used’. As a long-established and trusted brand, we’d be inclined to trust the reviews.
Too Faced Shadow Insurance Eyeshadow Primer
Cult Beauty, £21
It’s not only packed full of eye-boosting, brightening, tightening properties, but Too Faced Shadow Insurance Eyeshadow Primer also comes with the promise of keeping your eye make-up in place for a full 24 hours, complete with a lack of creasing and an absence of fade.
Smooth Out Eye Prime
Look Fabulous Forever, £27
Rave reviews for this one, especially for mature skin, since it smooths out the fine lines in which eyeshadow can settle, as well as containing a neutral pigment on which colour sits seamlessly.
4. Get to grips with the technique
After the prep, the ultimate smokey eye involves layering and skilful blending. Generally, experts recommend using three shades of eye shadow, ranging from dark to light.
Start with the darkest shade, run it along your lash line, and then use a brush to diffuse the colour up towards the crease of your eyelid. Next, take the medium shade and run that across the whole of your eyelid, including into the crease. Use a clean brush to keep diffusing this colour.
And now, for the lightest of your three shades. Run this gently under your brow bone, blending as you go. Add a touch more to the centre of your eyelid for a highlight effect. Then add lashings of mascara, and you’re good to go!
5. What about eyeliner?
You can add extra drama to your smokey look by drawing a line of eyeliner over the lash line. While some people enjoy the precision that a liquid liner provides, it can be better to use a kohl or cream eyeliner instead.
Why? Because these lend themselves more readily to the smudging, blending and diffusing that the rest of the smokey look takes to achieve, so can create a sultrier, more seamless appearance.
6. Does a smokey eye have to be black, or to use dark colours?
Definitely not! The ‘smokiness’ in a smokey eye refers less to the colour of the shadow itself and more to the effect. It doesn’t have to be black, grey, charcoal or any colour even remotely associated with smoke. You can create a smokey eye with colours or with neutrals: the smokiness comes from the depth and layering of the shades used.
So, how about a neutral smokey to complement a natural look? Start with a combination of browns and pinks, choosing the shades that best suit your skin tone. The same palette of dark to mid-to-light comes into play here, and the same technique you’d use with darker colours is applied.
What about brighter colours? Again, no problem. Simply take variations of the same hue – a dark, a medium, and a bright – and blend them in the same way that’s been described above.
7. I have hooded eyes. Can I still achieve a smokey eye look?
Absolutely – in the same way that make-up can be applied to eyes with fine lines or crow’s feet, a smokey eye can be achieved on hooded eyes with just a few tweaks and variations to the process.
Firstly, what is a hooded eye? In a nutshell, it means that less eyelid is visible when you’re holding a neutral gaze as it is concealed under the brow bone. Anyone can have hooded eyes – they’re often hereditary – but, some people can find that their eyes become hooded with age.
One thing worth trying is using a soft pencil on your water line – the inner part beneath the upper lashes. This will add definition to your eyes without overpowering the limited amount of lid. You can also make your eyes ‘pop’ by applying liner to the lower lash line.
And, when it comes to the smokey eye, try applying your shadow of choice all over your lid, blending it up towards the brow bone and then buffing it slightly out towards the outer edges of your eyes. Use the same shadow to create a fine line beneath your bottom lid. Add mascara, and voilà!
8. Can someone show me how it’s done?
Young relatives can be an absolute boon here – they seem to emerge from TikTok as experienced make-up artists! Or you might want to stop by a beauty counter in a department store for instruction. Many of these will provide this service for free, or set it off against the cost of products bought.
There’s also good old YouTube, which has the benefit of being able to stop and start tutorials to get to grips with what the presenter is saying, or take it from the top if you’re not happy with how eye make-up is progressing.
This tutorial is a great demonstration of how to create a lovely neutral smokey eye. Bear in mind that YouTubers will always have their favourite products, some of which may not be available where you live. Don’t let this put you off – just shop around for colours and shades that appeal to you and, remember, you don’t have to spend a fortune with designer brands – some high street offerings are not only affordable but good quality too.
Another tutorial we love is this one, not least because the entire look is achieved in five minutes! The presenter, Sally, also uses products from one brand – Look Fabulous Forever – which may appeal if you prefer to shop in one place, rather than trawling the shops.
Final thoughts…
The smokey eye remains a timeless and versatile make-up technique, bridging the gap between classic glamour and modern allure. Its enduring popularity stems from its ability to enhance eyes, create depth, and exude effortless sensuality.
With the right tools and techniques, anyone can master this iconic look, making it a staple in both everyday and special occasion make-up routines.
For more tips and tricks, check out our article; 9 steps for an easy, everyday make-up look.
Do you have any smokey eye make-up tips to share? We’d love to hear from you in the comments below.